I use Toners, Essences and Serums after cleansing on an ordinary day, or after exfoliation if it is a day when I am using an acid, after I’ve rinsed it off (I leave it on for an hour then finish off my routine) before I top off with a moisturiser.
Toners.
This is such a confusing term. Google ‘toner’ and you will find a plethora of products ranging from old fashioned aggressive liquids, full of alcohol, designed to exfoliate and remove any traces of creamy lotions, through to modern toners that are light and gentle, often in mist form, full of hydration and skin cooling and brightening ingredients. Personally, I ignore anything that contains drying alcohol: it does nothing for my rosacea, and I want hydration far more than I need to be dried out like a falling autumn leaf. Modern hydrating toners are made to be misted or patted into the skin and not rinsed away.
I’m currently liking:
La Roche-Posay Toleriane Ultra 8 Soothing Mist
Essences.
Half way between a watery toner and a thick serum, essences have a watery yet sticky texture, lighter than a serum, designed to hold active ingredients on the skin for longer. They underpin Korean and Japanese skincare, and often contain brightening, fermented ingredients. They are patted onto the skin rather than being wiped on as you would an old style toner or exfoliator and are not rinsed away.
Serums.
Serums are designed to deliver active ingredients, and will vary in consistency from a thick, viscous honey-like texture, through a gel that dries to a film on the skin, down all the way to a rapidly absorbed watery liquid. Pat on the skin and do not rinse off. Make sure to choose a texture that appeals to you and works with your skin, as I find some serums – particularly the more affordable brands – dry to an unpleasant cling-film like residue on my face.
It is a good idea to rough test for potential irritation: patch test a small amount on an area away from the face, perhaps behind the ear, or in the crook of the elbow, for a couple of days. If it shows any redness or flaking skin, or if it itches or burns, don’t use the product. If the inflammation is severe, it may be a good idea to see a doctor or dermatologist to check properly for any allergies. Otherwise, use the product for a full week and see if it still suits. A full six weeks use will tell if it making any tangible change to your skin.
Be aware that serums are packed with active ingredients, and you may have to experiment to find one that will suit your skin – this isn’t cheap, as serums are also the most expensive part of any routine. I also find that although serums say they can be used morning and evening, my skin doesn’t like that amount of actives in one day, so I only use in the evening.
I’m currently liking:
Honestly, I doubt anyone needs to use all three of these product groups, and I currently don’t use an essence, though I am tempted. If you choose to do so then apply them in rising order of thickness, from watery toners to thicker serums, patting each one on and letting it sink in before the next layer. I certainly wouldn’t use more than ONE essence or serum at a time. In the morning, if you intend to use makeup on top, after adding sunscreen, the likelihood of pilling – where the product rolls off in greasy lumps – is greater the more layers you use.
Please note: This site reflects my personal opinions and should not be taken as professional advice. Please consult a skin professional if you have any major concerns.